by Byron Carrick
The locavore movement, or even remote awareness, has come a long way lately. Folks are starting to gain more understanding of why it’s a good idea to support local farmers and businesses that offer the local bounty. Pavle Milic and Charleen Badman have been doing it for years over at Restaraunt FnB, the first local eatery that offered a full Arizona-only wine list as well as big purveyors of locally grown and raised offerings. So it only makes sense that the two open up another joint that offers the same delicious ideas, but with a twist.
Baritin keeps to the theme of farm to table, but the menu might surprise you. The ever-changing features generally offer up the simplicity of what is at its peak at that particular moment. A snack, a salad, a sandwich and something sweet. That’s it. There are no selection of sides or choices of bread. Quite simply, you are offered what is freshest, available, and truly delicious.
A unique concept in a world of choices. We are so used to going into a restaurant and having a massive selection to choose from, but Baritin takes you out of that comfort zone. They instill trust deep inside your bones, then deliver it on a plate or two with great success.
My wife and I went during the week for our first time. Small and cozy with patio seating we chose to sit inside. We both ordered the salad, the cold chicken sandwich and a glass of local Arizona wine.
The salad was a medley of shaved squash, radish, a light balsamic and oil with flakes of Parmesan and pinion nuts. So fresh and heavenly I barely took a breath in between bites. Everything blended together so well, the flavor and crispness was an eye opener.
But the sandwich. Oh my.
Stacked tall on fresh local bread, smothered in Charleen’s amazing cole slaw, sat the most beautiful, deep fried and refrigerated chicken I have ever seen. Yes, cold fried chicken. It took me back to my childhood when my grandmother would fry up chicken for dinner, then the next day I would sneak little pieces from the fridge off the plate of leftovers. The texture of fresh bread, cole slaw and that damn chicken was a symphony of memories and understanding when food was real and tasted good.
The end result was my sheer fascination to know what the next menu might offer. This quaint mystery and longing has me anticipating my next visit.
5 stars and a hug to Charleen and Pavle. They have simply done it again.
